Day 13  Burgos – Hornillos

21.0 km / 13 miles

The only thing about Spain that I knew before visiting was that they are known for their paella.  Oh paella, you are such a flavor full, rich and sultry meal.  The layers upon layers of rice, chorizo, tomatoes, seafood and saffron makes me happy.  As of today, I have yet to have had the chance to try paella.  Most villages I stay in are so small with a population of only in the 100’s.  There is usually only 1 or 2 places to eat, with very limited menus, consisting of mostly the same meal.

I Have Not Forgotten About you Camera

Today I get a late start.  I wait around until the carrier service, that delivers pilgrims backpacks to the next village, arrives at my hotel. (An option that some people take if carrying their pack as become too cumbersome.)  I have become accustomed to waking up before the sun rises every morning.  Waiting around until the afternoon to get walking and not really knowing for sure if they will come, let alone with my camera, was a risk I was willing to take.  I sit and enjoy the sun and watch the birds visit the fountains in the hotel courtyard.

Watching the birds

At last, a man carrying many bags finally walks up to the front desk.  I immediately ask, “Tienes camara verde?”  He reaches into his pocket and pulls out my neon green camera.  I am so extremely grateful and overjoyed.  I ask how much; “Cuánto,” in Spanish.  “Diez,” he responds.  I happily give the man $10 and probably would of given him even more.

On the Road Again

I feel whole again.  I already have reserved a place while I was waiting around; knowing how late I will arrive to the next village.  I need to get going since I have a lot of ground to cover before dark.

Open Road, Not a Soul in Sight

Open Road, Not a Soul in Sight

Today it is extremely hot outside.  Since I started the day walking in the afternoon, the sun is at its highest, beating down on my exposed arms and face.  There are few people on the path at this time.  Two younger Dutch girls and I.

Hornillos, Spain

Local Church in

Local Church in Hornillos

I arrive into Hornillos around dinner time.  The place I am staying at, El Alfar,  is a private albergue in a quaint small village setting.  There are only a couple places to stay in this village.

I walk into the door to an already settled in group.  Thankfully I made a reservation because the hosts fill me in that all the albergues are full in this town.  If I would not have made a reservation, I would have had to walk another 5 km to the next town.  I thank my lucky starts for thinking to reserve ahead of time.

Outdoor Kitchen at

Outdoor Kitchen at El Alfar

This place is one of my favorite places I have stayed at thus far.  The owners are a couple that love to entertain in their backyard.  The wife cooks us fresh homemade paella in a giant pan in their outdoor kitchen.  The group is a small one, we all bond over wine as we anticipate a one of a kind home made meal; a first for me since in Spain.

Best Paella

Best Paella in Spain

Best Paella in Spain

Permanent Pilgrim

Permanent Pilgrim

The paella is the best I have ever had.  I am full and happy here.  Every one at this albergue is a new face.  It is amazing how many more people I have yet to meet while I walk on the camino.  We merrily eat and drink and have a good time with el Alfars’s “permanent pilgrim”.